-------------------------
Eric Fry, reporting from a chateau in Normandy…
For
the last few nights, your Rude editors have been chateau-hopping
throughout the countryside of Normandy, France – let's call it "Joel and
Eric's Aventure Excellente."
For a
couple hundred euros per night, they may indulge their aristocratic
fantasies – i.e. their pre-Revolution aristocratic fantasies. They may
scale the stone steps of an ancient tower as they duck through stunted
doorways into their respective sleeping chambers. They may also survey
their vast,
verdant grounds by day and sip calvados by night, just like their
aristocratic predecessors.
Sometimes the fantasies end abruptly and prematurely, as when the
manager of the Chateau d'Audrieu grimaces and reports, "Some of the
other guests complained that you were making too much noise last night."
"Oh,
we are very sorry," your editor apologized. "We assure you that we will
be as quiet as church mice this evening."
"We
appreciate that," the manager replied, "but I'm afraid two of your three
rooms are already reserved for this evening. We did not realize until
just a few minutes ago that they were already blocked for tonight…and we
have no additional vacancies. So it looks like you won't be able to
stay. Desolee, monsieur."
"Pas
de problem," your glass-half-full editors responded, as they packed up
their unwelcome bags and headed for the next chateau on the route. At
least, they hoped to land at another chateau, even though they had no
precise idea where they would be heading next. But their experience at
the Chateau d'Audrieu convinced them that they simply must lodge
exclusively at chateaux, preferably exclusive chateaux. A mere hotel
simply would not suffice.
Therefore, after a day of touring the D-Day beaches of Normandy (a
must-see for any visitor to France), your editors' rental car – and
serendipity – led them to the Chateau d'Agneaux in Saint Lo. The town is
perhaps more famous for its spontaneous non-existence than for any
aspect of its centuries-long existence. Nearly 95% of the town turned to
rubble under the relentless assault of Allied bombing runs during the
Normandy invasion. Since so little of the town's structures remained,
many folks scorned the idea of bothering to rebuild it. But the Marshall
Plan would leave no bombed stone unturned, or at least shoved aside to
make way for some sort of aesthetically unpleasing reconstruction. And
so Saint Lo did remerge from its wartime rubble.
Among
the 5% that escaped obliteration was the 13th century Chateau d'Agneaux,
a magnificent stone castle, complete with towers and turrets. For more
than 700 years, this castle's robust granite blocks and massive oak
beams ignored the rise and fall of kings, dukes, nations and genocidal
lunatics. And it also sidestepped the slings, arrows, catapults and
carpet-bombs of outrageous fortune. For more than 700 years, it served
generations of aristocrats as a refuge from the poverty, filth and
disease of European urban centers. And for one delightful evening, it
served one generation of American hoi polloi as a refuge from the lumpy
pillow of a chain hotel.
For
centuries, a countryside chateau was the dream and ambition of wealthy
families throughout Europe. And then, about 600 years after peasants
hauled the first granite stones to the site of the Chateau d'Agneaux, an
American version of this dream began to take shape across the fifty
United States. Millions of Americans aspired to flee the grime of the
cities for the splendor of the countryside…or at least, for the relative
cleanliness of the suburbs.
But as
James Howard Kunstler recently explained to the attendees of the Agora
Investment Symposium in Vancouver, the American suburb is dying. It is a
flawed concept that will not survive the onset of rising energy prices.
The
original designers of the American suburb must have imagined that their
residential innovation would endure as long as the stones of Chateau
d'Agneaux. Instead, as Kunstler passionately argued, the American
suburbs will fall as rapidly as the House of Usher.
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The Fiasco of Suburbia, Its Implications, and Its Destiny
By James Howard Kunstler
America's epical fiscal crisis that we are now seeing has everything to
do with our living arrangement and the choices we have made about that
in the last 60 years…
These
choices were primarily a response to the circumstances of the time,
mainly cheap land in a large continent and a lot of cheap energy. These
choices were also a reaction against the great industrial cities of the
19th century. These enormous industrial worker slums had never been seen
before…and it really scared people and it was full of all kinds of
problems. You get the noise and the filth of the industry and the
pollution and the health problems. You start to get these enormous
sanitary problems and epidemics from bad water and bad living conditions
with no light and no fresh air and terrible social behavior.
And
then something comes along. In the 1890s…we decided that we were
becoming a great nation, a great industrial power with great cities, but
we had cities that were unworthy of our greatness. So a consensus
formede that we had to do something about it. The architects, the
municipal officials, the money people, the plutocrats all decided it was
a very important project and the first great expression of it…was a
period of robust and emphatic Greco Roman revival architecture because
the idea there was.
There
were a couple of ideas there: First, our society was coming out of the
tradition of democracy from Greece and the tradition of being a republic
from Rome and the other idea was classical architecture was one of the
best ordering system for designing buildings…And so you saw this
wonderful expression of exuberant new city planning. The great Civic
center of San Francisco, the great Civic Center of Cleaveland, the Civic
Center of NY public library, the list of great buildings and great civic
center is very long, all produced in this period…Another one of the
responses to the horrible industrial city was this idea that we have a
heritage of settling the beautiful natural landscape…
And so
for the people that are really well off, a new option comes on the menu
and that is, you can live in the country villa and go into the city
during the day to be a city person in business and then go back to the
wonderful country villa at night. And remember at this time, when the
first railroad suburb was forming, there was no Wal-mart, there were no
highways. These people were really living in a country villa. Imagine
how wonderfully appealing it was and imagine how everyone else in
society began to aspire to this idea as a great goal in life. And it
starts to be delivered as a commercial enterprise.
One of
the first prototypes is Riverside, near Chicago - the great suburban
project by Frederick Law Olmsted, the designer of central park. They
come to Chicago just before the Chicago fire breaks out and they plan
this town…It must have been a wonderful thing, it was a 9 mile trip to
Chicago.
The
next incarnation comes along after about 1893 when you get the electric
street car and you start to get the great street car suburb of America
and they're very well known. The Chicago suburb of Oak Park, Myer Park,
Charlotte, North Caroline, Hyde Park in Cincinnati. The list of these
wonderful places is very long. They were some of the best neighborhoods
built in America because they were grand and magnificent and they were
green and wonderful. They were very close in and they used public
transportation very well. In fact, some of you may realize they were
places that have retained the most value in the last 100 years.
Something else comes along now. Henry Ford invents the Model A in 1907,
but its got a little problem with it. It's handmade. You can only turn
out so many of it. And it's relatively expensive at this point, more
than $1000. But in 1913 he devices the Ford assembly line and then you
can pump these things out in massive numbers and the price starts to
come down, down, down – from $500 to $300. By the end of the First World
War, the Model T cost about $280 and just about everyone that wants one
can get one.
Something is happening in the mean time. This wonderful program of the
"City Beautiful" that started in the 1890 has been going in full force
throughout the 1910s. And all these great civic centers have been built,
and the libraries and the city halls and the court houses. But the First
World War is a real turning point because when that is over, we abandon
the "City Beautiful moment" just like that. And we start to retrofit the
American Industrial city for the car and in the process of doing that we
make it worst than ever. Not only does it have all the industrial crap
all through it and the huge slums are bigger than they were in 1890
cause we've let millions more worker into the country, now we're putting
this overlay of noisy cars.
Now
admittedly, there were a lot of horses there before, but there are still
enormous problems and the expense of the signaling and paving the
streets because the cobblestone aren't very friendly. So immense amounts
of money go into the retrofit of the American city. And now another
thing starts to happen, you start to see the massive development of the
rural agricultural hinterland and the first real dedicated automobile
suburb like Radburn in New Jersey starts to get built. These are the
prototype to what is to follow.
However, only a certain amount of this stuff gets done before the
economy implodes and after 1929 the industry that is hurt the most is
the construction industry and very few of the motors suburb get built
during the Great Depression. And it's a 10-year hiatus in which the city
gets older and then you get another catastrophe, World War II. So the
hiatus is prolonged for another five years.
Then
the war is over and wonderful, interesting, strange new things happen in
America…We take this great knowledge of war time production and
expertise of producing massive amount of stuff to win the war – and all
the confidence that went with it – and we turn that into the project of
creating housing and housing subdivisions and that becomes the great
competition now for city life.
And
all of the advertising and public relations muscle of our culture is put
to the task of proclaiming the wonderfulness of the American suburb. By
the mid 50's you can take your choice, you can live in a lifeless,
slummy apartment with a view of the air shaft, like Ralph Kramden, or
you can move to the suburbs and live with Beaver Cleaver. And the choice
becomes obvious. The interstate highway comes along in 1955, a lot of
people said we built it because we had this idea that we had to evacuate
the city from the nuclear holocaust and all that stuff. Forget it,
that's not why we did it. We did it because we needed an economy of
suburban land development and it was a wonderful opportunity to do it.
We
were at our most confident in that period, we just won this tremendous
war against manifest evil so we used our resources to build this great
suburban project starting with the highways and, by and by, over the
decade all the subdivisions were built and all the other stuff followed.
For a while people would live in the suburb and go in the city during
the daytime and do their job and maybe their wife would come into the
city and do their shopping. I'm not making this up, my mom did this for
a little awhile. But after a while they purged the cities of the
shopping stuff and that went to the suburbs and some of the office stuff
went to the suburbs until the suburbs began to elaborate as a
self-organizing system into a kind of hypertrophic growth of their own.
Kind of like a giant network of tumors around America.
And
something else happened at the same time, the American mind starts to
get cartoonified. We start to loose a lot of our sensibilities and our
aesthetic and also our reasoning abilities and we become a cartoon
nation with a collective cartoon imagination. One of the unintended
consequences of this whole package is that for all of our blabber about
the American Dream and suburbia, it ends up to be an unrewarding place
to live in a lot of ways….
As
suburbia morphed and mutated, it was not country living for everybody,
but a cartoon of country living in a cartoon of a country house in a
cartoon of a country and that's one of the great unexpressed agonies of
the failure of suburbia and one of the reason why its ridiculed by some
of the people that live there, because at some level, subconsciously we
understand this.
You
know, the common complaint is that the trouble with the suburbs is that
they are all the same. When you ask a room full of people in a design
studio what's wrong with the suburbs, they'll say, "Oh, they're all the
same." But you know, there are a lot of places around the world that are
all the same. The hill towns of Tuscany are hard to tell apart from 500
yards away. Have you been there? You know...you don't come back from
Tuscany with a headache saying, "Oh, they were all the same, made me
feel bad." The boulevards of Paris are hard to tell apart at first. But,
you know...it doesn't ruin your vacation to go there.
The
problem with the American suburban habitat is not that its all the same,
its that it's the same miserable quality…
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[Rude Endnote: Keep an eye out for more of the best
presentations from the 2008 Agora Financial Investment Symposium over
the coming days. If you wish to secure yourself an audio copy of the
entire event, you can do so here.
The
entire conference is available on both CD and MP3 format. So whether you
want to listen to them at home, on the road, while doing housework or
while you're at work, there's a medium to suit you.
The
first round of these audio sets were snapped up pretty quickly so if you
want to avoid a possible delivery delay, we suggest reserving your copy
now.
Grab Your Vancouver Audio Set Here
Until
tomorrow...
Cheers,